Overlooked perhaps by the general public, but lauded by those in the know, Hungarian wine has a huge amount to offer, with a large and exciting range of wines. Sabar Kéknyelű Kõmagas 2019 - From a small winery at Lake Balaton in the volcanic-rich Badacsony wine region comes a young, fresh white that’s brimful of zesty lemon and citrus flavours. It’s another example of how local grapes are transforming Hungarian winemaking with the hand-picked keknyelu grape variety, making its mark in a wine that’s pressed and fermented in stainless steel tanks before being partly matured in oak. Enjoy it by itself or with a light salad, white fish, or goats’ cheese.
Sabar Kéknyelű is a rare white wine made of 100% indigenous Kéknyelű, a grape which is grown only in Badacsony. „Flowers of the meadows flow from the glass and summer white flesh fruits are also abundant. After the first impression of flowers and summer fruits, some tropical character, mostly pineapple appears. Exciting, concentrated, vivid. Deep, layered with firm structure and a touch of bitterness.”
Sabar Wine Estate was a big hit last year with their refreshing, fruity ethereal new release rosé wine, but Badacsony is first and foremost famous for its dry white wines, especially the single vineyard wines. Sabar Bács-hegy Olaszrizling 2017 was fermented spontaneously and matured for 7 months in lightly toasted, 500 litre Hungarian barrels. „Fruity wine with Quince and pear, accompanied by a hint of marzipan. The spiciness coming from barrel ageing makes the overall sensation more complex and gives the palate a pleasant smokiness, which is nicely retained in the aftertaste.”
Little hill, big wines – says Gábor Ádám, owner of Sabar Wine House, and it may sound boasting, but the wines have already proved their merits. The winery takes its name from Sabar Hill of 217 meters high, just near the village of Káptalantóti – it’s one of the smallest of the mountains of Balaton National Park, however regarding the terroir, it’s one of the best with great potential. The centre of Sabar estate, and the majority of its vineyards are located here. Their objective is not only to sell as many bottles as possible, but also to attract visitors to the venue and to share this unique feeling, the sense of terroir with them.
The 2017 Sabar Olaszrizling is a charming wine that manages to be attractive without resorting to cheap tricks. Balanced, delicious, this is a well-made wine showing the most beguiling side of the variety.
The world's best sommelier, Andreas Larsson had decided to taste Hungarian wines this October. In his wine glass our 2017 Welschriesling has also turned... and got 89 points! Mr. Larsson's wine description: "Pale straw colour with a green tinge. Youthful nose, fresh almond, herbs, citrus and some floral nose. Discreet fruit on the palate, light to medium weight with fresh apple, pear and dry spices notes, rather long and warm finish."
Superlative Value: Sabar Badacsonyi Kéknyelű 2017
This barrel sample has the finesse and delicacy of a Coindreau. Subtle florals, as well as aromas of gooseberry and lime. In the mouth it’s French toast sprinkled with lemon juice. A virtual appetizer of a wine. Aged in 60-year-old Austrian oak. Excellent. 2,500 bottles produced a year.
Sabar was perhaps my discovery of 2017 and this is their limited, top of the range wine, an olaszrizling (welschriesling). This wine is a candidate for the best Hungarian olaszrizling.
What is so special about the terroir of Badacsony? Why is the local community so active and cohesive? What are the most important grape varieties? In the following interview Gábor Ádám, leader of Sabar Wine House and Bálint Földi winemaker will answer these questions, plus they give some personalrecommendations for those visiting the magnificent wine region.
39 wineries entered 91 wines, and Sabar Single Vineyard Olaszrizling proved the be the best white wine of the competition. The wine was fermented and matured for 8 months in premium Austrian oak barrels (Stockinger) of 500 litres. Besides having hazelnut, citrus notes and white flowers on the nose, some neutral white flesh fruits are discovered as well. Well rounded on the palate with lovely acidity. Elegant wine with great potential.
Last weekend Sabar-dűlő borház organised a wine tasting for his partners and close friends. We were invited to taste the new 2016 vintages and later on taste back the older ones together with a cozy dinner at the winery.
The rose of Sabar is my personal favorite. The color was light salmon rosé, with a nice nose full of red fruits with little hints of minerals. On the tongue there were little bubbles, red fruit and a very little hint of peaches. The alcohol and acids were pretty well balanced which makes this wine a true delight.
After letting it rest in the glass for a few moments, the wine becomes an elegant and intensive wine with pink lady apples, citrus fruits and minerals in the nose. The flavor represents the terroir of the hill and Badacsony with its delicate minerals, some green apple and citrus fruits. The wine has some sweet notes in the end and is in harmony with the acids.
Obviously I would spend my week with tasting Sabar-dűlő borház wines, after having such a great visit to them last week.
The name of the winery was based on one the smallest hill in the Balaton region which is only 217 meters high. Their vineyards and cellar are also located there and it’s near a the village of Káptalantóti.
